This page explains my personal Digital Darkroom Practice.
I work on PC computers running Linux.
Images are shot on Canon 40D, 30D and 10D cameras.
Images are always shot as Raw files in my case CR2 or CRW files.
Downloading:
Before downloading, I create a folder on the computer for this job. Inside this folder I usually create others named raw, tif, and jpg. I download images from the card in a card reader to the raw folder. Once downloaded I batch rename the files using Gthumb, using the job description as the name,(eg newjob001.CR2) numbering starts at 1.
These files are my 'Digital Negatives'.
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Batch processing:
Depending on the requirements of my client I might carry out two batch processes. The first is to convert then all to .jpg files, changing the resolution to 300dpi applying auto-levels and saving in the jpg folder. The second is to resize to 6"x4" again at 300dpi for printing, this time also applying about 10% sharpening. These are saved in the 6x4 folder.
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Editing:
I view the raw files in an image browser gthumb or Rawtherapee and select those that will be re-opened and worked individually.
Using an image viewer will enable you to see images together and select from similar images. Gthumb will also run as a full screen slide-show.
Screen image from Gthumb
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RAW Conversion:
Whilst batch processing will quickly and easily convert large numbers of images, to get the best from a RAW file they will need to be opened and worked on individually. I use Rawtherepee and export the images to Gimp. Custom profiles for my camera are used for optimum image parameters. I adjust the white balance and exposure to ensure that the highlights are not 'clipped'. It is good practice to carry out any rotation or perspective adjustments in raw.
Images from raw files are converted to 16 bit files and the resolution to 300 dpi. I sometimes convert images to 32 bit files in Gimp to reduce any loss of quality and tonal values when adjusting them, then reduce bit depth before saving the files. | | 
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Adjusting the image:
My method is to first carry out any resizing and cropping. Next I make colour and contrast adjustments (usually in curves) and finally sharpen the image if required. Gimp scripts offer excellent 'smart sharpening' and noise reduction options which only sharpen the detail not the 'grain' and soften smooth areas without taking away detail. Individually adjusted images are then saved into the appropriate folder, this may require additional folders to be created. Saving files as .tif will maintain the quality, but for photographic lab printing files are saved as .jpg.
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Archiving and storage:
By now I have a folder on computer containing other folders for the original RAW files, adjusted, and resized images. I may have a number of folders containing different sized versions of the same images. Once all the work is carried out, the main folder containing all the others is written to CD, DVD or external hard disk for storing. ( I never clear the camera cards before writing files to CD / DVD, to insure that files always exist in at least two places ). CDs / DVDs are stored safely and I can return to these when I need to work on images, opening them again from the original RAW files. I use single use media NOT re-writeable disks. I always write images to a second media ( CD / DVD ) and never rely on having just the one copy on my hard disk, there are too many potential things to go wrong. Images take up large amounts of space on the hard disk so will need to deleted at some stage to create space; I check my back-up copies before deleting them from my hard disk. | | |
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All programmes available for Linux, Windows and MacOS.
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